Francesinha and the Flavours of Porto

Porto eats like it means it. This is a wandering afternoon through the city's appetite, from the market stalls to the tascas, built around the things the city actually craves rather than the things on the tourist menu.

We start among the produce and the smells of the Bolhão market, then move between a few local spots for the real Porto plates: a francesinha, that gloriously excessive sandwich drowned in sauce and a beer-spiked gravy, a bifana, some cheese and a glass of something from just up the Douro. There's tripe for the brave (Porto's people are nicknamed tripeiros for a reason) and a sweet finish to send you off.

You'll leave full and fluent in what to order anywhere in the city. Come hungry.

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