Tascas & Petiscos: A Local Lisbon Food Crawl

Forget the set-menu food tours. This is how Lisbon actually eats: a wandering evening through the tascas, the small family taverns where the wine comes from the barrel, the petiscos keep coming, and nobody's in a hurry.

We move between three or four of them, the kind of places with paper tablecloths and a football match on in the corner, ordering what locals order: grilled sardines, pastéis de bacalhau, a plate of cheese and presunto, maybe something slow-cooked your guide swears by. There's wine at every stop, a shot of ginjinha to finish, and plenty of small talk with the owners along the way.

You'll leave full, a little merry, and with a list of places to come back to. Come hungry, that's the only rule.

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